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THE
MELTING POT OF CULTURES
The commercial capital of Kerala and the most cosmopolitan
of Kerala’s cities, Cochin is
a fascinating blend of cultures. From time immemorial,
it has been the favorite
destination of globe-trotters and explorers. Blessed by
one of the finest natural harbors in the world, Cochin
has been eulogised as the Queen of the Arabian Sea.
In and around Cochin are
several cities of monumental value, but step into Fort
Cochin, and you are in a totally different world.
The
Chinese fishing nets, the Jewish Synagogue, the Dutch
palace, the Portuguese and British Architecture, all finely
blend with the rich heritage of the land, intricately
woven folklore and fact.
Reaching
Fort Cochin
With
an international airport, an international sea port and
a busy network of road and rail transport, the city is
well connected to the rest of the world.
 You
can either board a bus or hire a three-wheeled auto rickshaw.
If you prefer the ferry, the trip begins either from the
Main Boat Jetty or the Terminus Jetty near Willington
Island.
Walking
through Fort Cochin
Walking through this old
Portuguese settlement at a leisurely pace, will take you
up to an hour and a half. The most pleasant time for the
walk is between 9 am and 12 noon or between 3 pm and 6
pm.
The most ideally suited attire in this sub tropical country
is cottons and soft walking shoes or thong. A wide-brimmed
straw hat is of great help on a sunny day.
Fort
Cochin. Where time stands still
"If
China is where you make your money, then Cochin is surely
the place to spend it."
When Nicolas Conti, the
legendary Italian traveler said this, Cochin was flourishing
in trade as one of the most desirable destinations approachable
by sea. And Fort Cochin, once an obscure fishing hamlet,
found itself at the hub of all this bustling activity.
It was soon to be the first European township in trade
as one of the most glorious cities in its history.
Fort Cochin probably has the best preserved history of
colonial times and the ideal way to bring it alive is
to take a walk down its old colonial roads, with its tree-lined
avenues and quaint little lands and beside the seashores
– where magnificent Chinese fishing nets sketch a spectacular
skyline. It is believed that Chinese travelers during
the reign of Kubla Khan had introduced this art of Chinese
fishing to Cochin.
In AD 1341, a cataclysmic flood threw open the estuary
at Cochin. Thanks to the strange ways of nature, out of
this land-locked area was born one of the finest natural
harbors of the east. This in turn paving the way for a
deluge of seafaring visitors, from the Arabs to the Chinese
and later, from the Portuguese to the British. The features
of the latter ones characterize the façade of Fort Cochin,
to a great extent.
The
Portuguese
Walking through Fort Cochin will transport you back to
the last years of the 15th
century. When the adventurous Vasco da Gamma and valiant
Cabral let their religions to this land lured by the fabulous
riches of Malabar Coast and established flourishing trade
relations.
In 1553 with the permission of Maharaja of Cochin, Fort
Immanuel , the first European Fort in India was constructed
here. Within its vast confines, the Portuguese built houses,
Churches and other buildings while generously contributing
to the indigenous cultural fabric, the standard of which
still endures.
The
Dutch Designs
While traveling down the
streets of Fort Cochin, the Dutch influence is profound,
they laid out most of the town in its present form. In
doing this, they cut down the Fort to about a third of
its original extent, when they wrested it from the Portuguese
in AD 1663.
During the Dutch era, Fort Cochin climbed the heights
of fame as a rich commercial center, major military base,
an illustrious cultural hub, a noted ship building yard
and an age old center of Christianity.
The
British
The
last side of colonial regime seen at the Fort Cochin are
those of British, who took over the town in 1795.After
those glorious years it was then relegated to the role
of an administrative outpost. Yet, the spices and tea
trade kept it in the lime light. In many of the Bungalows
here, you will notice the grandeur of European Villa;
evidence of distinct strain of Indo/European Architecture
that matured mostly in this period.
Detours
into the past
After
the enlightening walk through Fort Cochin, and if ones
curiosity is still asking for more, walk on for the Jewish
settlements of Mattancherry is just 20 minutes away. The
Dutch Palace and the Jewish Synagogue, that are over 400
years old, are places where you can treat be immersed
in the glorious past of this land.
Chinese
Fishing Nets/Vasco da Gamma Square
 These
huge cantilevered fishing nets are the legacy of one of
the first visitors to Malabar Coast. Erected here between
1350 and 1450 AD by traders from the Court of Kubla khan,
these nets are set up on teak wood and bamboo poles.
The best place to watch the net being lowered into the
sea and catch being brought in is Vasco da Gamma square,
a narrow promenade that runs along along the Beach.
The square is an ideal place to idle with stalls serving
fresh delicious sea food and tender coconuts.
Pierce
Leslie Bungalow
This charming Mansion was
the office of Pierce Leslie & Co., coffee merchants,
founded in 1862. A representative of Fort Cochin Colonial
Bungalow, this building reflects Portuguese, Dutch and
local influences. Characteristic features are wood panels
that form the roof of ground floor, arched doorways, carved
doors and sprawling rooms. Water front verandas are always
an added attraction to such house.
Old
Harbor House
This house that was once
a boat house and built in 1808 is the possession of Carrit
Moran & Co. renowned Tea brokers, who now use it as
their residence.
Koder
House
This
magnificent building constructed by Samuel. S. Koder of
the Cochin Electric Company in 1808 is a supreme example
of transition from colonial to Indo-European Architecture.
Features like Veranda Seats at the entrance, floor tiles
set in a chess board pattern, red colored brick like façade,
carved wood furniture and a wooden bridge connecting to
separate structure across the street are unique to this
Bungalow.
Delta
Study
Once
a warehouse, this heritage Bungalow built in 1808 is presently
a high school with the same name.
Santa
Cruz Basilica
This
historic Church was built by the Portuguese and elevated
to a Cathedral by Pope Paul IV in 1558. In 1795 it fell
into the hands of the British when they took over Cochin,
and was demolished.
In 1887 Bishop Dom Gomes Ferreira commissioned a new building
at the same site. The Church has since been proclaimed
a Basilica in 1984 by Pope John Paul II.
Loafer’s
Corner/ Princess Street
One
of the earliest streets to be constructed in Fort Cochin,
Princess Street with its European style residences still
retain its world charm. The best view of this quaint street
can be had from loafer’s corner. The traditional meeting
place and hangout of the jovial locals of this area.
Vasco
House
Believed
to have been the residence of Vasco da Gamma, this is
one of the oldest Portuguese residence of Fort Cochin.
Built in the early 16th century Vasco House
sports the typical European glass paned windows and Balcony
cum Verandas characteristic of the times.
VOC
Gate
The
large wooden gate facing the parade ground with monogram
(VOC) of the once mighty Dutch East India Company carved
on it was built in 1740.
Parade
Ground
The
colonists conducted their military parades and drills.
The building around the ground housed their defense establishments.
Today, the largest open ground in Fort Cochin, the parade
ground is a sports arena.
The
United Club
One of the four elite clubs of British Cochin, the
United Club today serves two roles- as a class room for
the nearby St. Francis Primary School by day and card
room for the current listed members by evening. Until
1907 the building housed the offices of Fort Cochin Municipality.
The Bishop’s House
Built in 1506 as the residence of the Portuguese Governor,
the Bishop’s House stands on a little hillock near Parade
Ground. The façade of the house is characterized by large
Gothic Arches and has a circular garden path winding up
to the main entrance. The building was acquired by Dome
Jos Gomes Ferreira, the 27th Bishop of the Diocese of
Cochin whose jurisdiction extended over Burma, Malaya
and Ceylon in addition to India. A powerful man for his
time.
Fort
Immanuel
This bastion of the Portuguese in Cochin was a symbol
of the strategic alliance between the Maharajah of Cochin
and the Monarch of Portugal, after whom it was named.
Built in 1503, the fort was reinforced in 1538. By 1806
the Dutch, and later the British, had destroyed most of
the fort walls and its bastions. Today, remains of this
once imposing structure can be seen along the beach.
The
Dutch Cemetery
The tomb stones here are the most authentic record of
the hundreds of Europeans who left their homeland on a
mission to expand their colonial empires and changed the
course of history of this land. The cemetery was consecrated
in 1724 and is today managed by the Church of South India.
Thakur
House
This graceful building holds within itself a reflection
of the colonial era. The Bungalow was built on the site
of the Gelderland Bastion, one of the seven Bastions of
the old Dutch fort. Earlier known as Kunal or Hill Bungalow,
it was home to the managers of the National Bank of India
during the British reign. Today, the Bungalow belongs
to Ram Bahadur Thakur and Co., the renowned Tea Trading
firm.
David
Hall
Though built around 1695 by the Dutch East India Company,
David Hall gets its name from one of its later occupants,
David Koder, a Jewish business man. The Hall was originally
associated with Hendrik Adriaan van Reed tot Drake stein,
renowned Dutch commander better known for his 'Hortus
Malavaricus', a pioneering compilation of the flora of
the Malabar coast.
The
Cochin Club
The club, with its impressive library and a collection
of sporting trophies, is housed in a beautifully landscaped
park. In the early 1900s when the club had just become
operational admission was restricted to the British. Today,
though the club retains its traditional English ambience,
its rules are more liberal and the membership of 250 includes
women as well. Strangely enough, alcohol is not served
on the premises.
St.
Francis Church
Built in 1503 by Portuguese Franciscan Friars, this is
India’s oldest European Church. This was initially built
of timber and later reconstructed in stone masonry. It
was restored in 1779 by the Protestant Dutch, converted
to an Anglican Church by the British in 1795 and is at
present governed by the Church of South India. Vasco da
Gamma was buried here in 1524 before his remains were
moved to Lisbon, Portugal. The tombstone can still be
seen in the premises.
Bastion
Bungalow
Built in the Indo-European style way back in 1667, the
Bungalow gets its name from its location on the site of
the Stromsburg Bastion of the old Dutch fort. The building
blends beautifully into the circular structure of the
bastion, has a tiled roof and a typical first floor verandah
in wood along its front portion. Though it has been said
that a network of secret tunnels runs beneath the Bungalow,
none have been found. Today, the Bungalow is the official
residence of the Sub Collector. |
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